The Fun Doesn't Always Have to Come to an End

What a long time it has been since my last update - I apologize! This will actually be my last update because I officially ended my Peace Corps service on October 26! Twenty-seven months in Panama. Wow, where did the time go?

My work projects were left semi-complete, but that is the nature of development work. Truthfully, towards the end, my motivated community members got busy in other activities, some left the community to find work elsewhere in the country, and some just lost interest and enthusiasm. It seems like a sad way to leave the community, but I have to remember what we were able to accomplish and hope that they will continue with what they were taught. After all, sustainability is our #1 goal.

• In the Artisan Group, we reorganised the group, wrote membership rules and defined/trained the Board of Directors in their roles. They learned the importance of product development and always working to keep their products modern without losing it's tradition in order to appeal to tourists. We experimented in new markets and hopefully they will continue with the relationships that we were able to build with outside vendors.
• With the Women's Group that runs a small store, I worked a lot with the Board of Directors to teach them their individual roles and responsibilities. They also received training on how to run their small store effectively. We also did a rehaul of the group's rules and regulations to ensure that all members were participating equally.
• For the kids in the community, I taught Junior Achievement classes to 32 middle school students, Life Skills and Sex Education classes to 55 middle school students (with a fellow volunteer, Charles Walker), and had a small Girl Scouts group for a year. At the very end of my service, my neighboring volunteer (Charles Walker) and his new replacement (Maggie Melcher) and I worked together to paint a 6ft x 12ft World Map on the school in my community. How awesome for the community!

I feel proud of what I was able to help the community accomplish. Though I do wish that I could have motivated them more. A lot of the time, the women that I worked with were so caught up in just getting by - putting food on the table, having time to clean the house, wash clothes for a family of 6, helping with homework, working on their farm - that they didn't have time to focus on anything above the "Safety" level (if you think about the Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs). Even though I pushed and tried to motivate and get them to think above their everyday worries, they eventually just got burned out of hearing me. Everything ended fine, but personally I was ready to leave the community and move on to the next phase in my life.

So much was learned from my Peace Corps experience - an incredible amount of personal and professional and relational growth in only 2 years! What I most take away are facilitating skills, listening skills, patience, flexibility and a deep appreciation for other cultures/backgrounds. I can also now say that I am fluent in Spanish! Personally, I take away a strong dedication to focusing on the important things in life - living for Jehovah God, helping and loving others, and using my God-given skills and talents to better this world.

If you haven't heard, I am still in Panama! I am truly happy here and I prefer this way of life - beautiful environment by natural Caribbean beaches, living simply without the urge to buy the latest gadgets or move on to a bigger house, car, etc., already connected to a group of people who I can continue helping to improve their lives. There is no job stress to sell more more more, work 50+ hours per week, commute 1+ hour every day, do the work that 2 employees should be doing. Everything here is rrreeeelllaaaaxxxeedd because here most people recognize that there is no need for extra stress in life, extra money just to make you misspend it, extra pressures to cause you to deceive or make an illegal move. Most people here want to do good for their community and live in peace.

Half of my reason for staying was certainly for my Panamanian boyfriend, Oduber. We have been together for a year and a half and we want to see if this relationship is really meant to be. We are attending a local bible-based church and have started a couple's bible study with one of the leaders in the church. We are very happy to have a good group of friends and influences.

I was very lucky to find a job soon after arriving in Bocas del Toro, where we live. I am working at Habla Ya, a school that offers Spanish classes and full-service trip planning in Panama. I am working on the Sales team, responsible for helping future students organize their trip to Panama. I am also doing some business consulting on the side for a small eco-tourism resort. Hopefully it will turn into a fun new business adventure for me!

Thank you all for following me through my 2 year Peace Corps service. I still have my blog up - learnlovegive.blogspot.com. Check it out to read all about my adventures in Panama. Beware that there are some controversial entries... hope I don't hurt anyone's feelings! But I wanted to be real and speak truthfully. And sometimes the truth hurts, right?

To close, here are a few bible verses that I find particularly important after everything that I have learned in the past two years:

“Don’t you know that friendship with the world is hatred toward God? Anyone who chooses to be a friend of the world becomes an enemy of God.” James 4:4

“If you belonged to the world, it would love you as its own. As it is, you do not belong to the world, but I have chosen you out of the world. That is why the world hates you.” John 15:19

“Faith by itself, if it is not accompanied by action, is dead. A person is justified by what he does and not by faith alone.” James 2:17, 24

“Make it your ambition to lead a quiet life, to mind your own business and to work with your hands, so that your daily life may win the respect of outsiders and so that you will not be dependent on anybody.” 1 Thessalonians 4:11-12

“Command those who are rich in this present world not to be arrogant nor to put their hope in wealth, which is so uncertain, but to put their hope in God, who richly provides us with everything for our enjoyment. Command them to do good, to be rich in good deeds, and to be generous and willing to share. In this way they will lay up treasure for themselves as a firm foundation for the coming age, so that they may take told of the life that is truly life.” 1 Timothy 6:17-19

“May God himself, the God of peace, sanctify you through and through. May your whole spirit, soul and body be kept blameless at the coming of our Lord Jesus Christ. The one who calls you is faithful and he will do it.” 1 Thessalonians 5:23-24

GRACE BE WITH YOU!

Panamanian Dulces

I have a major sweet tooth. Somehow I have escaped cavities, diabetes and obesity. So obviously God is ok with me consuming more than the average amount of sugar. Thank you Lord. I will also say that being a Peace Corps Volunteer has helped curb my sugar appetite because I don't get a whole lot of sweets out here (only when my awesome mama sends them my way :)).

Another reason why my sugar appetite has subsided is because it is virtually impossible to find good-tasting sweets in Panama. I have milled over this for many hours and have yet to come up with an excuse. For me, this inferior taste ends the game. No matter how pretty, fluffy, moist and delicious it looks, I know without a doubt that I'm going to be disappointed with the taste. So I don't even build myself up anymore.

But what could the missing ingredient be, seriously? It's like eating sugary air to me. The problem isn't that it doesn't have enough sugar. It's like it's missing depth, substance. It doesn't fill your mouth with the deliciousness of normal sweets. Is this description making any sense at all?

But this also makes me ask myself, what in the heck do they put in the sweets in the U.S.? You know, the box cake mixes, brownies, cookies, puddings, etc. In the bakeries and sweet shops. Is it the chemicals and unnatural substances that make our sweets so delicious?

Or have I been conditioned to the sweets that I grew up eating and now other varieties just don't taste as good? Maybe it's all mental.

I finally gave up the search and accepted the facts for what they were. And that is the story of how I lost my sweet tooth.

McFlurry Disappointment

I have a sad story to tell. You know that feeling you get when you want something really bad? You start imagining the thing, how it looks, feels, smells, tastes. And then you can't get it out of your head until you have it. Well that happened to me one day in front of a McDonald's Ice Cream station. Yes, they created an ice cream/sweets station and put it at the entrance of a grocery store in a little kiosk. Incredible, I know.

So I had been in Panama about 2 months at this piont. My Spanish was improving, I was used to the Latino culture and dirty cities, and my waist line had increased about an inch from eating lots of fried food and rice. Peace Corps treated us to sweets about once a week during training: cakes, doughnuts, cookies. But Panamanian-made sweets are not anywhere near as delicious as those made in the U.S. I like to think of myself as a "sweets connoisseur" and these Panamanian confections never satisfied my appetite. I held out well, but that McDonalds sweets station lured me in and needless to say, I took the bait.

There is pretty much nothing in the world more brilliantly simple than a McFlurry. Perfect fluffy cold vanilla ice cream mixed with candy bar pieces like Snickers, Reeses, Twix, Oreo. Good God it's amazing.

I kept my cool as I ordered even though my insides wanted to jump through my skin from the excitement of the first bite. $2.50, a bit on the high side but I knew it was worth it. Didn't I deserve this treat? Lord, I had survived living in Panama for 2 months! I deserved 20 McFlurries!

The attendant handed it to me and I walked away naturally as if I do this all the time. No big deal. As soon as I turn the corner I pull out the spoon and take a big dip. Out comes a lot of vanilla ice cream. Hm. Ok not mixed so well. Let me dig around for the oreos. After a few turns I find a few crushed oreos at the bottom. REALLY?! Did you really just screw me over like that? Did I really just pay $2.50 for vanilla ice cream and a few oreo crumbs? Livid does not even begin to describe how I felt. But what could I do? I had already left and already started eating and I was running late to catch the bus. FML.

So I enjoyed my expensive vanilla ice cream on the bus ride home, reflecting over how nothing is ever as it seems in Panama. And I haven't eaten a McFlurry since.

The Chinos Own Everything

When I came to Panama, I expected to see a lot of Latinos. You know, tanned skin, black eyes, black hair. I did find a lot of them, but I came across a lot of some other races that were a big shock.

The first 20 or so black people I came across threw me for a complete loop when they started speaking Spanish. It was so weird hearing Spanish coming out of a black person's mouth. Does that show how naive I was or what?

But the biggest shock was the amount of Asian people I saw. What in the world brought Asians all the way to Panama? And not only are they here doing their own private thing, they own every freaking super market in the entire country. You think I'm joking. It's not a joke. Supermarkets here are called "chinos." That's how ridiculous it is. And do you know how many supermarkets there are in tiny little Panama? Good God, millions! And a different Chino (affectionate little name Panamanians call Asians, like how they say Gringo for white people) owns each one with their own family! They have to make up like a third of the population, seriously. It's crazy, and weird. So not what I expected.

The day that I first realized that everything in Panama is owned by chinos was about 3 weeks after arriving in Panama. I went to the nearby city to call my family back home. I had to buy a calling card. I went into one chino, no luck. Told me to go to the other chino on the corner. I went there and asked, still no luck. Referred me to another chino on the opposite side of the street. Third time's a charm and I got my calling card. But seriously, each chino sent me to another chino because they all have a secret underground network where they all own everything! Scary. Definitely don't trust that.

And, just for your information, the Ngobes around here believe that there is a submarine in the bay owned and operated by "chino rojos" and they come and eat Ngobe babies at night. So it's not just me that believes there is a ridiculous conspiracy.

The Meaning of FAMILY

F: future
A: acceptance
M: mosaic
I: indebted
L: learn
Y: ya'll

I can think of multiple reasons for why the "western family" has become watered down, but that is not my fight. I like to say "to each his own". Who am I to tell you how to raise your family?

Here in a poor indiginous village in Panama, I have rediscovered the meaning of life. This starts with God and stretches out to people and our relationships. The most important relationships we have on Earth are with our family. Sometimes this is blood-related and sometimes not. Either way, almost all of us picture a few (or many) important faces when we think of the word FAMILY.

In this blog post, I want to stress the importance of family through wisdom that I have accumulated in Panama. Sit back, relax and picture your family in your mind.

The most important thing about family is that it's your Future. The future is the next 10 years, 1 year, 1 month, 1 day, 1 hour. No matter what, your family will be there. Once the old members pass away, new ones will spring up to replace them. I love to think about the lives of the abuelas where I live. Some of the lucky ones still have parents alive and brothers and sisters. But those that don't are surrounded by children and grandchildren. For the community, it was extremely abnormal for me to live my myself, sleep in a house all by myself. They are always surrounded by family, from birth to death. I love to think about their lives because they have seen the beautiful life cycle of so many people as they grow and make their way through life. Your family is your future.

There is no one in the world that will Accept you for who you are other than your family. Maybe this isn't your reality, but I encourage you to focus on your future family and try your hardest to practice accepting your family members as you would like others to accept you. Acceptance goes hand in hand with unconditional love; love a person for who they are, God's creation, no matter their mistakes and faults. I believe that love between family members is the closest we get to unconditional love on Earth. When a woman has 8 children, it's inevitable that a few are going to take the "wrong path": fall in with a bad crowd or get pregnant too soon. Out here, not once have I heard that the son or daughter was forever sent out of the house, shunned, disinherited, or never spoken to again. They weren't supported or applauded for their actions, but they were loved through them. I think it's a very big tragedy when the children are expected to be perfect and inevitably make a mistake (because no one is perfect) and are looked down upon to the point of being written off by their own family. Who are you to cast the first stone? The practice of acceptance is of upmost importance in a family.

The family is a Mosaic of shapes, sizes, colors and personalities. The human race progresses in this world because of diversity. The reason why many hard-to-reach villages can't get out of poverty is because they do not have diversity which brings new ideas and skills and knowledge. But the family is constantly evolving with new members being brought in from different families.

A sense of unspoken Indebtedness should run through a family. Usually it flows from the children to their parents and grandparents, aunts and uncles, for the gratitude of raising them, supporting them, and helping them to achieve in life. In a poor community, the parents have to work much harder to find opportunities to make money to allow their children to achieve. Therefore, the children notice the effort more. They also have further to go so when they do finally achieve, they know who to give thanks to. I definitely feel like us Westerners have lost this sense of indebtedness. We take so much for granted, even our own parents.

A parent should never forget how much children Learn from them. Manerisms, values, language. From spoken to the unspoken, children are learning from the people they are around the most, typically family. The babies here usually start speaking the local dialect first before the common Spanish because dialect is the primary language spoken in the home and between women. This is wonderful to see because the language is slowly starting to fade out and not be passed on fluently to the younger generations. I think it's so important to tell children stories over and over so they will remember their family members and also so they will remember lessons better. Children relate well and understand stories better than facts or direct statements.

Above all, Ya'll are a family. It's your clan and nothing will ever change that. Be proud! Support one another! And remember that your uniqueness is what makes ya'll, well ya'll, so keep it going.

Water: How It Is Inconspicuously Wasted

In a developed country, there are lots of utilities that are taken care of without the bat of an eye: light, water, sewer, cable, internet. "Someone" fixes it up at your residence and next thing you know, it works. Simple as that. And we don't even give a second thought to how or why. Waste of brain space... or not?

This blog entry is devoted to our use of water. Really everyone's use of water because we all need healthy clean water. Do you know where your water comes from? Beyond the faucet? Do you know where your water goes? Beyond the drain?

This topic wouldn't be such a big deal if clean water were like sunlight. Almost every day, the sunlight breaks through the sky or the clouds and shows it's happy face for about 12 hours. That hasn't changed ever. But as most of us know, clean fresh water is not as easy to come by. So why do we waste it as if it were limitless?

I'm not at all an expert in this area, so my ranting will hopefully just create an alert or an "aha" so that you are more aware of how you use water. I don't know statistics and can't quote famous researchers, but I know that immense amounts of water are misused and wasted every day through seemingly innocent actions.

Let's take the first example of a shower. Do you leave the water on while you suds up? Why? Oh you don't want to get cold? Lame excuse buddy. If you absolutely are doing to die, why don't you put a big bucket to catch the wasted hot water and then use that water to wash dishes with. What, you're too lazy to carry the bucket to the kitchen? Wow, there just aren't enough words for you my friend.

So now that we're on the topic of the kitchen, let's talk about the dishwasher. What a ridiculous invention to make people more lazy than ever. All a dishwasher is meant for is to give its owner more time to plop down in front of the tv. "Let me throw the dinner plates in the dishwasher so I can catch my favorite tv show!" You know it's true. Well, the honest truth is also that a dishwasher uses an absurd amount of water. Washing by hand does just as good of a job, if not better. And hot water to kill the germs is totally overrated. Soap is made to do the exact same thing.

The next example is understandable for those that do not have a clean stream or river near their home: the washing machine. But if you have an uncontaminated water source directly from the ground, use it to wash clothes too! So much more water efficient and more effective. Or soak your clothes in a big bucket filled with water and detergent, wash and rinse.

We've come to the example of the epitomy of wasting water: the toilet. Yes, the toilet. Give this a thought: Why do we poop in clean drinkable water? Clean water that is so precious, that we need to save and conserve? Why would we mix a contaminated substance with clean water, only to have to separate the two and clean the water for re-use? Why spend millions (or more) of dollars to "treat" water when we could just stop getting it dirty in the first place?! Lord have mercy. I just want you to think about that and let it sink in that we poop in clean water.

Ok so what is the solution? Composting, people. Don't you know what natural fertilizer is? It's usually composed of poop from some animal, like chickens or cows. What makes our poop any different from barnyard animals in terms of fertilizer? Not much! There are safe ways to collect human poop and turn it into fertilizer: a composting latrine. It's not rocket science people. Put back into the earth what came out of it. That's it.

So that's my rant. Hope it enlightened you and made you more conscious of how much water a typical "Westerner" wastes through silly time-saving inventions.

Visit to the Salon

I'm a big proponent for the bikini wax. Just throwing that out there. So when the time came for a group beach trip, my first thought was, "Hope I still fit in my bathing suit" and the second was, "Where in the heck and I going to get a bikini wax?"

Thankfully, two of my friends were thinking the same thing. Pooling together our resources, which is to say taking advantage of the native speaker in our trio, we quickly found a salon that was willing to give bikini waxes for $10. Sweet because I'm used to paying at least $20 in the States.

On the scheduled day at the appointment time of 10 am, we arrive. First of all, the doors are locked and someone has to come let us in. Obviously walk-ins are not welcome (nor creepers off the street for that matter). When we enter I notice that the parlor is under a bit of construction. My friend had done all of the negotiations so this was my first time in the salon. My friend explains to me that the owner is in the process of putting in a private room for waxing, but it is only half-way completed. The owner promised my friend that it would be finished before our appointment, but obviously it's not. There are scaffolds and other building equipment at the entrance.

We sit down on the modern shiny black leather couches and wait to be greeted. About 15 minutes later the owner comes out and introduces herself. She's a vibrant and beautiful black woman who speaks rapid Spanish. She tells us that it will be a few minutes and then she'll call each of us back. She explains that the construction crew didn't finish but she'll get the room ready for us as best she can. We're flexible so we tell her no worries. Meanwhile we pass the time talking and reading a few magazines.

About 45 minutes pass, no joke, and finally she calls us. I'm the first to go in. She leads me back to a small room and closes the door. It's outfitted with a table for waxing, a stand and a chair. It's not well lit, but enough to be able to wax. I notice the ceiling isn't finished and I can see up to the rafters. There is a connecting bathroom and she asks me to take off my pants there and then lay on the table with a sheet covering me. She went out to get some supplies or something. She has a sweet demeanor and I don't notice any worry or frustration in her voice.

I do what she says and she comes back and gets ready to do her job. Like all estheticians, they're good at conversting. It passes the time much easier. We small talk and I learn that she's from the Dominican Republic and her husband is Panamanian. She tells me about her salon, she's had it for 10 years. We talk about Panama and how it's different from other places. All in all, pleasant converstaion with a sweet woman who is determined to work for herself and do her thing. She finished up and we said our goodbyes and I went and waited for my friends to have their turns.

When we were done, we each paid our $10 and left much cleaner than we have entered. What started out a bit frustrating with construction and a slow start, ended very nice with exactly what we had hoped for. It just shows how far patience, adaptability and understanding will get you in this world.

Mary Beth's Suggested Reading List

It has been said that Peace Corps Volunteers are the most well-read people on the planet. Actually, I just made that up. It is true that we read a lot. I'll finish up my service with about 75 books read over the 27 months, but I know others who were closer to the 200 mark. Sounds unreal but obviously you don't understand how much free time we have...

So I feel it's sort-of my duty to recommend some new books for you. You're interested, right? Here are my top picks broken into categories for your convenience.

Non-Fiction (and changed my life)
1. The Good Life by Helen and Scott Nearing
I admire the authors tremendously for how they restructured their lives. I hope to be able to live like they did - working with their hands, living off the land. A simple life, the way God intended.
2. Hope's Edge by Frances Moore Lappe and Anna Lappe
I have always been "health-conscious", trying to eat balanced and avoid too much fat and salt. But this book opened by eyes to even bigger problems with our diets and what we consume. It made me more aware of the "unnaturalness" of our food and the ridiculous way that we feed animals for consumption. It was a pleasure to read because her style is smooth and inviting. She offers many ideas for overcoming these food problems. Surprisingly positive to read.
3. Three Cups of Tea by Greg Mortensen
This book is quite popular so if you haven't already read it, get on the wagon! And if it's been awhile, read it again! Greg did amazing work in Pakistan and Afghanistan dealing with education, something that we should all be inspired by. Education in developing countries greatly moved up my "importance ladder" because of the awareness that Greg shared in his book.
4. The Humanure Handbook by Joseph Jenkins
White people don't like to discuss poop because we feel like we're super clean and sanitary and totally above waste matter. Well, the truth is, we produce a lot of it and the way we handle it is stupid. You just have to read this book. I could rant and rave about this for hours... Anyway, the book is well written, humorous, and full of good information and solutions to help us properly deal with our waste.

Fiction
1. Let the Great World Spin by Calum McCann
Absolutely fantastic book. McCann is a brilliant writer.
2. The Razors Edge by W. Somerset Maugham
Surprisingly great read. Did not expect to enjoy it so much but I couldn't put it down.

Ridiculous
1. Running with Scissors by Augusten Burroughs
Out of control, this story of Burroughs' life. Laugh out loud but in the way that you also want to cry for him. One reason why I want to go into social work...

Catching Series
1. The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo by Stieg Larson
If you haven't read this series of 3 books, sit yourself down one weekend and knock them all out. They're brilliant.
2. The Hunger Games by Suzanne Collins
I imagine most people have already read this series of 3 from Collins but if not, get on it! Super quick reads and very engaging.

Travel
1. [India] Karma and Other Stories by Rishi Reddi
I loved this little book from Reddi. She's a very intelligent writer. In this book of short stories, she joins the lives of multiple people to form a puzzle of luscious life in India and the U.S. Great quick read which will leave you wanting to experience Indian culture for yourself.
2. [France] From Here, You Can't See Paris by Michael Sanders
I read this book multiple times over the two years of my service. It is a joy to read and learn about small village France and how life has continued there over the centuries. Of course, the chapters about the restaurant that he studies is chock-full of interesting information that leaves you with a fresh understanding of how find food is really prepared.
3. [Italy] Under the Tuscan Sun by Frances Mayes
What a beautiful book and interesting journey that Mayes takes us on. She is a careful writer, great storyteller, intimate and intricate. I read this account of her multiple times, longing for the real-life experience that she paints for her readers. Italy is near the top of my travel list because of this book.

Animal Novela

You could basically write a novela based on the life of my pets.

First came Reese, an independent gorgeous female feline. Young but street-saavy. The gatos of Cayo Paloma started chasing her right away. Bam - pregnant within two months.

Four beautiful gatitos are born: 3 boys and one girl. As bad luck would have it, the boys didn't survive under the care of the Indians. Reese knew it was a mistake to let them leave. At least she still has her baby girl, Georgia. Reese keeps Georgia close by her side and well-nourished: 6 months on the nipple and a rat or bird expertly caught and delivered at least once a week.

Then the gringa-foodgiver did the unthinkable. She took Reese to a vet and had her spayed. Without the consent of Reese! Reese never forgave her.

A couple of months later, the gringa-foodgiver brings home a foreigner - a dog for God's sake. What was she smoking bringing that ugly chocolate-colored flea bag in here? All he does is yap-yap-yap and bite everything. Lord have mercy on us. Reese knows what to do. A little voo-doo magic with the squirrels of the forest and POOF - the dog stops eating and starts pooping blood.

Well not long after, the dog (Kaiser) kicks the bucket. Georgia falls into a state of depression for what her mother did and finds comfort in a sweet tomcat next door. It doesn't seem to be a problem until Reese starts giving Georgia the cold shoulder. Feeling more lonely and sad, Georgia confides in her older wiser vecina and learns that the sweet boy cat next door is her Father!

Meanwhile, the gringa-foodgiver has lost her wits over Kaiser and has stopped feeding Reese and Georgia. With Reese on the outs with Georgia, Georgia has to finally learn how to fend for herself. She picks up another bad habit of her mothers and begins stealing from the store next door. She feels she has no other option - she was never taught how to catch birds!

After a strict scolding from the gringa-foodgiver, Georgia is taken to live in another house on the outskirts of town. It's meant to be a rehabilitation center so that Georgia will learn that stealing is bad. It feels more like a prison to 9 month old Georgia. Eventually, the "rehabilitation" fails and Georgia is thrown out for stealing turtle meat.

Alone and on the street, Georgia comes running back to the gringa-foodgiver, the only person in the world who actually cares for her. After a long embrace, they work out their differences and the gringa-foodgiver decides Georgia can return to live with her. But under one condition: she must get pregnant ASAP. The gringa-foodgiver wants more kittens.

This proves to be much more difficult than planned. At one year old, Georgia knows she must be fertile. She endures that painful sex from two tomcats every week, but still no pregnancy. Did God strike Georgia at birth so that she will continually have troubles in life? When will there be relief?

Even though this is where the novela is supposed to turn happy, unfortunately that hasn't happened for Georgia yet. She got a bad case of heartworms and the gringa-foodgiver brought back another stupid dog. This time a girl puppy named Gracie. Better named Crazy because that puppy is a nightmare, always barking at Georgia and trying to bite her. Georgia has to show her who's boss every once in a while and slaps her in the face with the claws out. That does the trick.

Oh and what happened to Reese you may wonder. She went to live and work for another family, hunting rats at night in exchange for a little food and a dry place to sleep. Seems to be working out well for her because she she passes Georgia, she doesn't even look her way. Wey puta.

Cocina Time in Hato Chami

Many people say that the kitchen is the heart of a house. Food is an essential part of life for all human beings, so naturally it follows that the kitchen becomes an intimate gathering place. When someone invites you into their kitchen, you know they're inviting you into their heart.

I had a very beautiful experience in a unique kitchen in the mountains of Panama. I visited a large indigenous community for a week and had the unexpected pleasure of staying with a local family. Though I left the home early every morning to work in the community and returned in the late afternoon, we shared every evening together in their kitchen. All the way in the cold indigenous mountain villages of Panama, the kitchen is still a warm gathering place.

Beautiful mountains of the Comarca Ngobe-Bugle

This kitchen was like none I had ever seen nor have seen since. It was round, about 12ft in diameter. It has 3ft high walls made of sticks and bamboo. There were two openings on opposite sides for entering. The roof was cone shaped, the highest point in the center reaching about 12ft. The roof was made of thatched grass. It reached all the way down to the short walls, enclosing everything inside in darkness. The only light shone through the doors and the thin strips between the sticks. The floor was dirt.



The kitchen



The inside was outfit with a fire pit used for cooking, a long table with nothing on top and a few wooden stools scattered about. There were old cardboard boxes and chagras holding indiscernible items lined up on one side of the wall.

On the first night, everyone was very shy to speak to me. Everyone except the abuela, the matriarch of the family. She lived there with her son and his wife and kids and also her daughter and her young children. I didn't get to meet everyone; many stayed in the separate house where they all sleep (I slept in their small family store apart from the kitchen and their house where they sleep). But I learned that there are about 10 living there from a picture I took of the family at the end of my stay.

Family that I stayed with (I think some of the people in the picture were neighbors).

The abuela and I talked about our families and how life is different in the United States. She taught me many words in her native language as we sat beside the fogon. Unlike our grandmas in the States, who each seem to have a defined personality, the abuelas in the comarca are all remarkably similar. They have worked very hard all of their lives to raise children and grandchildren, take care of their husband, keep up with the housework, help out in the finca. By the time they become viejas, they are tired. They do their work in a rote-like manner, exactly as they've done it the last 50 years. They are calm as if nothing phases them. I'm sure they have experienced a few highs and many lows in their lifetime; a sad truth of poverty. So when a gringa comes to live with you for a week, well it's nothing over which to get your panties in a wad!

Towards the end of my stay, the children got more daring and began talking to me. I helped them with English as they stood around, some staring and some smiling at me, kinda like what we do at zoo animals really. They took more of an interest in me than the adults. Funny. I still find that to be true today.

Part that I slept in with the small tienda.

But over everything that I experienced in that kitchen, something stays with me that is unexpected to most Westerners: the humo. Humo is the smoke that is released from the firewood used for cooking in the fire pit. I like to think of myself as a city girl; I've never been one to go camping or really enjoy living outdoors. So this was my first experience with the eye-burning, cough-inducing, stomach-churning smoke that completely enclosed the kitchen every night. It's a miracle the kitchen doesn't burn down during the dry season. Smoke rises so the two little entrances didn't help the smoke escape, though it did help fresh air get in (I wisely sat very close to one entrance). Therefore the smoke had to slowly seep through the straw/grass roof, which was also damp from the constant rain (it was the rainy season when I visited). Needless to say, it was awful and I have no idea how those people can suffer under those conditions every single day. Mainly the women are suffering because they're the ones cooking. Unbelievable.

So forget saving the whales! Save these poor grandmas from lung disease and blindness by helping them develop safer stoves and fogons to cook on!

[I didn't really mean that about the whales. They really need to be helped too; beautiful peaceful sea mammoths, LET THEM LIVE!]